Starting fluid now starter does not work1/10/2024 The issue is that you do have fuel in bowl and accel pump is working after start up. Vehicles factory equipped with 100, 200, and 400 amp alternators have the battery direct wiring factory installed. No fuel squirting means either no fuel in bowl or accelerator pump bad. Basic and A1 vehicles upgraded to 100, 200, and 400 amp alternators must have the alternator wiring harness modification in place (done when the alternator is installed) so the alternators output does not go through the control box. 1) Is your engine wire harness in good condition? 2) Is your alternator a 60amp unit? The PCB that Erik's sells has the following warning.Only the 60 amp alternators can power directly through the control box. New glow plugs should be put in when you replace the PCB and TSU. Truck will only start with starter fluid but wont stay running I can hear the fuel pump kick on and it turns over and acts like its gonna fire up but wont 4 Answers 24,940 oilyspill answered 4 years ago Use a gage and check proper fuel pressure, 44-54 psi, If your in the middle, should be fine. Also, a grounding harness (which is a sticky) may also help, since the HMMWV given its aluminum body and maybe 20-30 year old wiring might not be grounded. As others have said, the PCB should have correct and matching Temp sensor. The bottom line is, the Wait To Start (WTS) light should be coming on for 8-10 seconds if the motor is cold and the outside temp is cold. Other than that if it doesnt start without fluid it. I'm by no means an expert, as I am running down my own issues.but I have learned a bit. Now we have heard of people getting lucky but in your case you will not know unless you remove the heads. The glow plugs may also suffer, but are a much lower priority, IMHO. My understanding is that the issue with starting fluid is the combo of energy density, flash point and high compression makes it prone to pre-detonation, which can brake internal engine parts. Else, a block heater, or blowing a space heater on low at the engine in the garage to heat the block (like how piston aircraft pre-heat engines when cold). If you need starter fluid on a gasser with fuel injection, then something is really wrong with the car and should be fixit ASAP. How about options to pre-heat your engine to see if it starts (safer than starting fluid)? I've heard that blowing a hair dryer down the air intake can often be enough. So you should be able to ballpark how many are/aren't working based on voltage drop. I don't have the numbers in front of me, but there is an expected current draw per GP. How about continuity checking the glow plug wires from the control box to each glow plug?ĭo you see your voltage drop when your glow plugs should be heating, even though the light doesn't come on? That would be evidence that they are receiving current. But looking at pasts posts, I didn't see responses about adding a grounding harness.
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